Food

The baker who works before the sun

Inês Carvalho

5 min read

Man wearing white polo shirt

Helena starts at four. The oven is already hot, fed overnight with oak and chestnut, and the dough has been resting since the evening.

She uses three ingredients for most loaves and will not discuss the fourth. Guests who come to the dawn session leave with flour on their sleeves and a better understanding of patience.

Stay a while.

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